EXPEDITION WILD
Mana Pools, Zimbabwe
Chitake Springs and the Zambezi Valley
Expedition Basics:
9 Nights, walking expedition exploring Mana Pools National Park.
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Our Destination:
Mana Pools National Park is known for its spectacular wildlife, natural beauty, and is home to the now famous Chitake Springs that attracts large number of animals in the late dry season. Situated in the north eastern part of Zimbabwe along the mighty Zambezi River, it forms an integral part of the greater 17,745 km² Trans frontier Conservation Area.
As a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the most popular tourist destinations in Zimbabwe, Mana Pools offers visitors a unique and unforgettable experience. Whether you're an avid nature lover, a photographer or simply looking to escape into the wilderness, Mana Pools has something to offer.
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The Route:
The trip kicked off to an early start as we started our four day journey to Mana Pools via Northern Kruger, Gonarazhou then onwards to the Zambezi valley. Around 1500kms with about half of the distance to be travelled in wildlife areas.
This was a route we had been wanting to do for some time, over the Limpopo River via Mozambique then into Zimbabwe and onwards. This crossing would take us out of the Northern Kruger via the Pafuri border post, across a shallow Limpopo river just after the confluence of the Limpopo and luvuvhu rivers then through Mozambique for about a R50km stretch, take us a few hours. This part of the trip was one of the highlights traversing the relatively untouched Limpopo valley then into Zimbabwe and Gonarazhou National Park via the Sango border.
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Our first night was at the Pafuri Border camp in northern Kruger, and after the crossing we ended up at Gorwe Pan in central Gonarazhou. This is a large seasonal pan surrounded by miles of untouched wilderness. The central area is dry but for a few seasonal pans like Gorwe. We wild camped on the edge of the pan for the night that proved to be a busy evening with small groups of elephants and buffalo streaming in thought the night. The full moon that was due a few nights later did not disappoint lighting up the pan throughout the night
From Gorwe Pan we headed north stopping at a few pans along the way, bumped into a small breeding herd of buffalo heading towards Lion pan. By lunch we had driven through the central part of the park and popped out just south of Chilojo Cliffs, the famous red cliffs of Gona’s, at Fishans Camp Site on the Runde River. We crossed the river just west of Fishans on a rocky causeway only passable in low season where we had a lekker swim to cool off in what was our first real day of warm weather. We enjoyed lunch on the northern/ western bank right under the cliffs soaking up the incredible views and landscape. After lunch we departed past Chipinda Pools Camp and out the gate heading past Chiredzi to our night stop at Triangle Country Club
The next day would prove to be a long journey, the road would take us past Ngundu, Masvingo to Harare where the road was actually quite good and new in parts but after Harare via Chinhoyi, then Karoi and onwards to our overnight stop at Makuti the road had deteriorated a lot. This 700km, 11 hour journey is not to be repeated especially the last stretch from Karoi you need fresh eyes! Road conditions are bad and endless numbers trucks going in both directions. As you approach Makuti you start entering the conservation area so “animals on the road” add another challenge. It was an adventure but would have been better to split the trip into two days and enjoy the country side!
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Chitake Springs Day 1:
After our harrowing drive we made an early start heading down the Zambezi escarpment into the valley. Temperatures where well into the 30’s but it’s all just part of the adventure!!
After entering the park we headed straight to Chitake and to our campsite 3b along the river with thankfully good shade. After dropping off a table to tell the others we had arrived we headed to the famous Chitake Spring head where after a short stay Mike arrived on foot. We later headed back to camp and met up with the rest of the group who had left early from Bulawayo also a long 9 hr drive.
After setting up camp, the fun began and we headed off on foot, first heading back up to the spring head where we found a female elephant with her calf by the water and had an awesome sighting of a juvenile Bateleur, on route who perched right above us with no concern at all. This would become a theme at Chitake as we would learn the wildlife are used to seeing humans on foot as this is the only way to explore this area.
After a short stop at the spring we crossed the riverbed and up the other bank where we were met with a very grumpy lioness. We could hear her way before she showed herself giving us a nice rev before pushing off into the bush. We would be seeing more of her and her cubs!
Our first night was also full of excitement lions roaring, leopard and hyaenas calling and as silent as church mice a groups of elephants past almost unnoticed in front of our camp to the spring under cover of darkness.
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Chitake Springs Day 2:
It seemed we were destined to see more lions than anything else! On our morning walk we bumped into the female again with her cubs this time and a number of other lions including 2 large males, we counted about 12 individuals altogether. Having walked a lot I can honestly say I have never seen such relaxed lions, they would happily allow us with 30m of them without lifting an eyebrow, well, except grumpy that is, who made it quite clear we were to close but surprisingly the other lions and especially the males barely flinched! quite a privilege I must say.
After this awesome sighting we walked up past the spring and into the dry Chitake river bed with its red and white sandstone cliffs, in sections towering 20m above us on either side. Along these steep banks you would find a lot of what seem to be purposely excavated holes where the animals have dug away trying to get many minerals contained within these banks
Chitake is like an oasis in the landscape attracting thousands and thousands of birds from Helmeted Guineafowl, Red-billed Quelea, Grey-headed Sparrows, Red-eyed Doves, Turtle Doves, Meves Starlings and many more including a variety of raptors from African Hawk Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Gabar Goshawk and Little sparrowhawks. For these and other predators this is like a smorgasbord of tasty treats. Some memorable bird sightings included Red-throated Twinspot, Eastern Nicator, Lesser Honeyguide, Lillian’s Love birds, Carmine Bee-eaters, Tropical Boubou, Lanner and Peregrine Falcon, Meyers Parrot
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Chitake day 3
Early start again around sunrise we headed back to the spring where we met the usually crew hanging around, this time the lions were looking at us from across the drainage line with grumpy locked eye on us while the rest if the pride just hang around doing there thing.
We didn’t say for too long and went south again into the drainage line as we did the day before, this time further up towards the escarpment stopping ever-so often to ID a tree or bird.
Well into our walk we were coming around a sharp bend in the river bed with 5/6m high banks on either side with a piece of the bank on the right jutting out onto a clump of rocks hence the sharp turn in the river. One glance up to the right and an odd silhouette broke the otherwise straightish line of the upper bank, a shoulder, a head and various other body shapes broke the line and just then the cubs heads popped up, yawned then in disbelief jumped up and scurried away. Thinking that was it, we regrouped only to be met with the low growl of grumpy mom very unhappy with us and again to her true form she showed herself making it quite clear the viewing was over! They must have also headed south after we had seen them in the morning, perhaps they were missing us! Anyway we would later double back onto the top of the other bank for a short stop where we managed to see one of the Males and the rest for the pride resting up. We gave them a break and came back later that day, and in true form they had barely moved but we were fortunate to see the cubs messing about in the now cooler late afternoon air, close supervised by mom!
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Day 4,5 and 6
Our final day at Chitake had come all too soon and we also had to bid Mike Pelham farewell as he had other commitments to attend to. After breaking camp we headed north down to the Zambezi River, first checking in at Nyamepi Camp then onto our private camp site at Gwaya where we had booked in for the next 3 nights.
The camp was well located on the river bank opposite a small open island, unfortunately this part of central Mana has a lot of camp sites along the river, nevertheless we were treated to the finest hospitality Mana has to offer! First in, was a small heard of ellies, with one young bull in particular that helped us unpack our vehicle, literally sticking his trunk into the vehicle pulling bags out! We sorted him out, but he was followed by an onslaught of baboons and monkeys all eager to assist us. Anyway we soon settled into the camp site, leaving nothing out for our eager friends.
We spend the next few days walking this central region unaided by park rangers, which is unique to Mana. In Mana you’re allowed to leave your vehicle as long as you follow the rules and it is recommended that you go with someone experienced. The ability to wander on foot offers one the unique freedom to explore the floodplain area of Mana. As expected you are never far from elephants but as we moved through the floodplain dotted by large mature trees there was always a tranquil landscape to be seen with baboons, impala and eland going about their daily business- truly a special place.
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Day 7/8/ 9
Camp Mana
All good things come to an end and our time as a group had come to an end. Bruce, Rups and Grant packed up and made an early getaway headed south west back to Bulawayo, then on their respective ways. For us we were fortunate to be staying three extra nights at Camp Mana with Steve Bolnick the camp owner, professional guide and veteran of the bush who setup this private camp five years back. The camp is well located on the banks of the Zambezi River overlooking a large grass covered beach, packed with wildlife often as many as 7 mammal species in eyeshot.
Having spent the last three nights in the central part of the park, around Nyamepi where the main headquarters are located, it was great to move further west into a quieter part of the park. One of the highlights was observing the famous Dynasty Wild Dog pack (or a remnant of the original pack). We spent many hours with them on foot over our visit, one of the more memorable occasions we watched the youngsters harassing a few elephants and eventually once tempers where raised the elephants gave chase with much fun fair, trumpeting and tree shaking. Steve’s local knowledge of the area really made a huge difference and we were treated to some amazing wildlife encounters. Steve has a thing for some of the old bull ellies of the floodplain, often these bulls can be very docile and with Steve living alongside them, it seemed they had their own thing going which was a privilege to experience. We spent our three nights exploring this area, tracking lions, walking different sections of the floodplain, just taking it all in. Big thanks to Camp Mana.