EXPEDITION WILD
Luvuvhu to the Limpopo
Northern Kruger, South Africa
Expedition Basics:
7 day primitive backpack trail along the Luvuvhu and Limpopo Rivers in the Northern kruger National Park
Estimated distance covered 65km
Mid October 2021
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Our Destination:
We returned to northern Kruger to complete the last phase of our Luvuvhu walk that we began last year. After completing the 45kms odd of the river in Makuya Nature Reserve we returned this time inside the National Park where the river enters the park. Our journey would take us along the Luvuvhu, into the famous Lanner Gorge then north across the catchment divide onto the mighty Limpopo River and the boarder with Zimbabwe and Mozambique to the east.
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Night 1 - we where dropped off north of the river about a 2 hrs walk that took us down into into the western end of Lanner Gorge and onto the Luvuvhu river which was a welcome site as temperatures where well into the 30’s. We camped high up above the previous floodline on the bank looking down on the river well below.
Night 2 - “The beach” we set off early back up the northern edge of the gorge and walked eastwards along the top of the gorge to the far eastern section to what must be one of our best campsites ever, a massive sandbank shaded by two giant Kudu-berry trees on the bend of the river. From our camp we had sight of a Peregrine Falcon and Verreaux Eagle nests. We also where fortunate to come across some detailed rock art on the top rim of the gorge.
Night 3 - We spent the morning exploring up river before returning to the beach for the hotter part of the day. As late afternoon approached we headed downstream to the eastern edge of the gorge and set up camp in a small grove of Jackal-berry trees where we spent the hot night in the undergrowth with all the other creepy crawlies! Two elephants came close by in the river before turning off out of the gorge, we also heard hyaenas as well as Pels Fishing Owl that hooted continuously through the night
Night 4 - we said goodbye to the Luvuvhu and Lanner Gorge and with cooler weather that blew in during the early hours of the morning we headed north on our way to the Limpopo. Our over night stop was Mashashiti Spring in the hills where fresh water tricked out of a series of springs. We camped on a rocky ledge overlooking the spring and surrounding area. The cooler weather was welcome with a few spots of rain and wind, less so was a very inquisitive woodland mouse that worked its way through all our bags looking for treats eventually giving my hand a good taste test!
Night 5 - the day started wet with a few mm of rain wetting our sleeping bags and packs, as we where sleeping in the open no tents. This got us up and packed and before long we where heading North over the ridge then more westerly making our way down into the Limpopo valley. A number of drainage lines leading to the river still seeped water from the previous seasons good rains and was well frequented by wildlife especially buffalo and elephants. We came across one large herd of buffalo who took off into the woodland, but we also walked into a small herd of 6 bull elephants walking up the same game path we where on and then another two later who where browsing and came close by for an eyeball to eyeball inspection! We finally reached the river near Spokonyolo Pan, which was a brisk 20km walk from the spring but seem to pass by quickly in the cool weather. We camped in a grove of trees on the banks of the Limpopo.
Night 6 - the cooler weather seemed to be stay and we end up having a cold and slightly wet night in the early hours. Coffee at sun rise around the fire was rewarded by two elephants on the northern bank, in Zimbabwe, briefly making an appearance on the sandy river bed. The river stopped flowing in August which now left only a few isolated pools scattered along the river course. We set out heading east along the well established riparian forest comprising of large Sausage, Mahogany, and Apple- leaf trees with some large Sycamore figs along the banks and a few large stands of Fever trees. We made camp on the river bed near a large pool and enjoyed the afternoon exploring the the area notching up a few nice birds including a juvenile crowned eagle.
Night 7 - The moon had increased in size over the week and it turned out that on our last night it was full moon. So as the sun set and the moon rose over the horizon it lit up the sandy Limpopo river bed like a black and white movie. Its always surprising how bright the moon is and sleeping out without tents is like going to bed with the lights on!
The Limpopo River is a massive river bed, a border to three countries, remote, with people and wildlife living together. You cannot but wonder how things must have been like hundreds of years ago, seemingly untouched but there are signs everywhere of mans long history with this area from rock art, ancient stone ruins and the many stories of the famous ivory trail and the many traders that past through, perhaps camped in the very same spot on the banks of the Limpopo River.